Permanent makeup was embraced for convenience and confidence.
Image: Freepik
There was a time when perfectly sculpted brows, permanently defined eyeliner and softly tinted lips were considered the ultimate beauty shortcut.
Permanent makeup, also known as cosmetic tattooing, promised to eliminate the daily routine of pencilling in sparse brows or reapplying lipstick, making it especially appealing to busy professionals and people with hair loss or medical conditions affecting eyebrow growth.
Eyebrows quickly became the biggest success story.
Treatments such as microblading, powder brows and combination brows dominated beauty salons around the world, fuelled by social media trends favouring bold, sharply defined arches.
Lip blush and permanent eyeliner followed closely behind as more people embraced cosmetic tattooing for convenience and confidence.
The trend has not disappeared, but beauty ideals have evolved.
Treatments such as microblading, powder brows and combination brows dominated beauty salons around the world, fuelled by social media trends favouring bold, sharply defined arches.
Image: Thanh Cong Le / Pexels
Fuller, softer and more natural-looking brows have replaced the heavily sculpted styles that dominated much of the last decade.
At the same time, a growing number of people are looking to correct or remove cosmetic tattoos that no longer suit their face, have faded unevenly or simply reflect a trend they have outgrown.
Dermatologists have also reported increasing requests to treat complications and dissatisfaction as permanent makeup became more widespread.
Recent research found that colour changes were the biggest reason people sought eyebrow permanent makeup removal, followed by concerns about both colour and shape.
Researchers also found that removing unwanted cosmetic tattooing significantly improved participants’ quality of life.
According to Dr Alek Nikolic, a renowned specialist in aesthetic medicine, one of the biggest misconceptions is believing permanent makeup can simply be erased in a single treatment.
“There is no single answer, and anyone who promises one should be treated with caution,” he says.
Unlike traditional body tattoos, permanent makeup pigments vary widely in their composition. Some contain iron oxide or titanium dioxide, ingredients that can react unpredictably when exposed to laser energy.
“Permanent makeup removal typically requires anywhere from three to six laser sessions, sometimes more, spaced six to eight weeks apart,” says Nikolic.
How many treatments someone needs depends on several factors, including how deeply the pigment was implanted, the colour used, skin tone and how efficiently the body clears the broken-down pigment.
He explains that some pigments can actually become darker after laser treatment before they begin fading.
“Many contain iron oxide or titanium dioxide, which can paradoxically darken when treated with laser rather than fade. This is why a test patch and a proper assessment matter before any full treatment begins.”
Although the skin surface usually heals within seven to 14 days after each treatment, pigment continues breaking down beneath the skin for several weeks afterwards.
“Rushing the interval does not speed up the result,” he says.
Immediately after treatment, the skin can resemble a mild superficial burn.
Redness, swelling and warmth are expected, while some people notice temporary whitening immediately after the laser.
During the following days, crusting, flaking and small scabs may develop.
Nikolic says this can feel particularly noticeable around the eyebrows and lips because these areas are always visible, making it worth scheduling treatments well away from important social events.
As tempting as it may be, picking at flaking skin should be avoided.
“Itching is common as the skin repairs. The important rule is not to pick, scratch or exfoliate the area, as this raises the risk of scarring and pigment irregularity.”
People with deeper skin tones may also experience temporary lightening or darkening around the treated area, which is why laser settings need to be tailored to each individual.
The healing process differs from person to person.
Image: AI ChatGPT
Recovery is less about adding active skincare than protecting the skin while it heals.
During the first week, Nikolic recommends using only a gentle fragrance-free cleanser together with a simple moisturising balm to support healing.
Retinoids, exfoliating acids, vitamin C and facial scrubs should all be avoided until the skin has fully recovered.
Sun protection is equally important.
“Sun protection is not negotiable,” he says.
Once the skin has healed, ingredients such as ceramides, panthenol, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid can help strengthen the skin barrier before the next laser session.
He adds that a healthier skin barrier generally tolerates future treatments better and heals more predictably.
What you can and cannot do after the removal process.
Image: Ai ChatGPT
Not every disappointing cosmetic tattoo should be corrected by adding more pigment.
Nikolic says anyone whose pigment has turned grey, orange or blue, or has migrated beyond the original design, should first seek medical advice.
“If the pigment has darkened, turned grey, orange, or blue, or has migrated beyond the original design, correction by layering more pigment on top is rarely the right answer and can make eventual removal harder.”
Medical assessment is also important if someone develops persistent itching, swelling, lumps or signs of infection, or has a history of keloid scarring.
“As a general principle, a permanent makeup artist corrects design,” he explains.
“When the problem involves the skin itself, its colour behaviour, its texture or its reaction to the pigment, that is medical territory, and a consultation should come before any further work is done.”
While skincare cannot remove remaining pigment, it can help the skin recover between treatments.
Nikolic says barrier-repair ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid help restore hydration after the skin has healed.
For people prone to post-inflammatory pigmentation, particularly those with melanin-rich skin, ingredients such as azelaic acid and tyrosinase inhibitors may also have a role, but only once healing is complete and ideally under professional guidance.
Chemical peels can sometimes support overall skin quality between laser sessions, but timing is critical.
“What should never happen is an exfoliating peel over freshly lasered skin.”
Instead, any peel should only be performed after a professional skin assessment to ensure the skin has recovered sufficiently and the treatment is appropriate.
As permanent makeup continues to evolve, so too does the conversation around it.
While cosmetic tattooing still offers a convenient solution for many people, today’s beauty trends favour flexibility over permanence.
For anyone considering removal, patience, realistic expectations and expert medical guidance remain the keys to achieving the safest possible outcome.
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